Given that this impending travel day is entirely out of my control, I have already begun the dehydration process because I tend to pee every hour on the hour. I plan to use the many hours in which I have to distract myself from the inevitable physical discomfort making a list of things that are realer than "the joy is in the journey." Off the top of my head, the dangers of standing in front of a microwave and the existence of Nessi, your friendly neighborhood Loch Ness Monster, come to mind.
We'll be spending a week there (2 days in Bluefields, 3 days in Orinoco, and a day in Pearl Lagoon) and I probably won't have wifi so if I miss something important on social media during my time off the grid, like #nationalsecondcousinsday or similar, please, please inform me upon my return.
When I'm back in Managua, I plan to write a strongly-worded rant on the "piropos" or catcalls that are a daily part of the reality of all women here. I can't start now because you should never go to bed angry and it pisses me off to no end, so more of a morning activity.
I'll probably write it after I go for my morning run and all my endorphins and good vibes are diluted with each "Chela" (pale girl) or *gross pursed lip noise* sent my way courtesy of men who probably love their mothers. And what drains me most is that I'll leave here in a few months and go back to my daily life, and maybe I'll carry the feelings that come with always being gawked at and objectified with me and maybe I'll forget, but my little sister here, who turns seven in sixteen days (the countdown has lasted over a month), will grow up with this constant harassment. And she'll think it's normal.
It's not normal. And I don't think the less overt sexism women face in the U.S. is any more excusable by any means, but the constant piropos here have got me feeling some kind of way. Man, I feel like a woman.
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| When your Grandma sells fruit, life is always sweet |
Tuesday September 8 (Day 13) Managua
I knocked over a thing of bananas at the market. I didn't actually touch it, but it looked like I did and that's all that really matters because when I tried to pass the blame along, I did so in English and no one understood.
Also- confused sopa (soup) and jabón (soap), both of which I needed to buy for the Campo, but Kenny my conversation partner at the UCA helped a lot/basically did everything for me after that.
Wednesday September 9 (Day 14) Managua
Tomorrow we leave for the campo and I have enough granola bars to sustain me. It's a shame I can't live tweet all that goes down, but I'm going in rogue/without wifi.
Thursday September 10 (Day 15)- Tuesday September 15 (Day 20) El Campo- Rural Nicaragua
There's a mosquito in my mosquitero (mosquito net). I've literally put myself in a cage with a mosquito.
I took my sleeping pill two hours too early; thought we went to bed at sundown...
Friday (Day 16)
(some of these written in a feverish haze)
Thought I was going to vomit so took breakfast off. Hopefully I can eat something or I'll waste away and become beautiful in America's unrealistic standards.
Going to check to see if I have a fever cuz chickengunya.
My fingers are swollen and sticky and clay-covered but I've done 0 sculpting, even after I wash them. What does this mean?
Is that a lizard, mouse, or cucuracha? Oh thank God it's just a lizard. Wassup, lizard.
If I have chikengunya, Imma buy myself a tub of Ben & Jerry's at all costs.
My Spanish would get really good here if I weren't so in my head or in my bed.
Saturday (Day 17)
I bathed publicly. Children stared at me like an alien until my host mom shooed them away. I think it's natural to be curious what the pale lady who came bearing gifts of jolly ranchers and Chicago memorabilia looks like under the oversized t-shirts, but it's just as natural to want privacy when showering, even when bucket showering.
Sunday (Day 18)
While making small talk, which in English I speak fluently, I said "I can hear the sharks over the mountains!" intending to comment on the drums I actually heard, pounding away for Independence Day.
Monday (Day 19)
Tomorrow I leave and wouldn't you know it, I grew attached. These people rock.
Bathed in a waterfall and deliberately nature peed over using la latrina. I am woman, hear me roar.
Wednesday 9/16 day 21
So good to be home in Managua with my family and my own bathroom that does not have killer bees or similar building a hive in it like that latrine seemed to.
Thursday 9/17 day 22 Managua
My family in Lisle has a new "brother" from Managua, which is very full-circle and small worldy and pretty trippy if you think about it a lot.
Also, Alvaro got a new pitbull puppy who definitely will change some long-held stereotypes about the breed and he showed me a new park so I can run once more!
| Family Concert @ El Teatro Reuben Dario last Friday |
| Carlos Mejía Godoy- he's still got it (seriously, give him a listen) |
| into the decor in San Juan del Sur (the place to be if you are a surfer or pretend to be) |
| The Joy is In the Destination |
| Buenas Noches, Luna. |
Friday 9/18 day 23 Managua
A man in the replacement park (Parque Japones is closed for 4-7 months so I've kissed it goodbye) interrupted me mid-plank (the exercise kind, not the internet trend of the late 2000s) to talk to me and then asked me in English how I say goodbye, and I responded "Adios" because I knew that one fairly confidently.
But then he asked for a "besito", (little kiss) and I just said "Estoy sudando" or "I'm sweating", which was pretty clear to everyone present so not really sure if people are into this look now, or what.
Then I put my headphones back in and he came back AGAIN to talk about gambling, was my understanding of it, and show me his iPhone, perhaps? I literally could not have been less approachable throughout all of this because I'm no longer gullible or foolish, and I'm also fed up with machismo in general, so hoping he got the hint.
ALSO, we went to a karaoke bar which was everything I hoped it would be -aka air conditioning and running water at all hours- and more because the crowd was great, I think my rendition really changed some lives, and bottle service for $7.50 in American moola.
Saturday 9/19 day 24 Managua
I started crying while watching Toy Story 3 with my family because when Andy says goodbye to his mom it hurts my soul. Why do we ever leave our moms and who started this horrible trend?
Tried to pretend I wasn't crying, because generally sweaty enough at any given moment to blame it on that, but I'm an ugly crier and a loud crier, the perfect storm, so there was no hiding it. All present were uncomfortable.
Sunday 9/20 day 25 Managua
My mom here woke me up with Las Mañanitas, the catchiest of tunes, and that's exactly the sort of thing my U.S. mom would do so it felt like home. I Skyped my biological fam while they sang to me and our new Nicaraguan brother, Kevin, because not only are we in each other's hometowns, we also have the same birthday.
He ate cake with my grandparents and I watched via the internet and it was like a really weird dream that you have to journal about right when you wake up so you don't forget it, and you're not sure what it means but it's probably good.
| Gram, Kevin, Papa |
Later I showed my Managua family the video Alana and Evan made me, which is Sundance worthy, and I realized my extended family understands more English than they'd led me to believe. For example, a memorable line, "Turn the f*** up, bi**h!"
| My cousin showin me the ropes. |
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| My parents in the U.S. with my Nica mom and aunt |
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| my birthday rash! twenty-fun! |
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| all the corn husks we used to make Atol, a beverage 10/10 would try again |
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| my bath my last day cuz cleanliness is Godliness |
It was the best birthday I could have ever asked for, except for one minor hiccup in which I applied a lot of a new organic bugspray before my party, developed an alarming rash, and had to change into something more modest so as not to scare the guests.
Monday 9/21 day 26 Managua
Park Man was waiting for me this morning, which was unpleasant and classic Monday, honestly.
Not dwelling on it, though, because Anita brought apples to celebrate my birth some more and it tasted like home.
Tuesday 9/22 day 27 Managua
Park Man's back back back, back again. Told him I don't come to the park to talk, I come to run. He said, "Me too," so glad we're in agreement.
Harry Potter was on TV again so I got to explain everything to the fam and honestly my Spanish is better when I'm talking about my boy, HP. "Los Horcruxes son partes de la alma de Voldemort y él escogió objetos para esconder los partes." And you should see me explain dementors; it's moving.
So, I'm going to sleep now so that I'll only be mildly unpleasant to travel with tomorrow. My malaria meds are packed, I'm open to the possible side effects of crazy dreams, and if the opportunity to have my hair braided comes up in these next few days en La Costa, which I've heard it might, rest assured I will take it.
xoxo,
Gossip Graciela (considering legally changing my name or just changing it on FB- thoughts?)


























